Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in 6. Jumble Hotel
|Center Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dome Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dome Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fire Escape TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Left Turret TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Lower Slab Zag TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Penthouse Balcony TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Rapunzel Arete TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Service Wing TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Turret Bypass TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||TR, 35 ft|
|FA:||TR Sharon+Ken Roberts 2015|
|Page Views:||60 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jan 2, 2016|
DescriptionFun moves on the arete. Too bad it's not longer.
Up the wide crack/chimney, then trend right and squeeze past an eight-inch tree at bottom of an arete with vertical crack to its left. Step right and climb up the face to the right of the arete.
Variation 1: Start by traversing from the wide crack/chimney right about eight feet out onto the face, then up the face to the tree and upper arete.
Variation 2: Climb directly up the upper arete (fun 5.6).
Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
LocationUpper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree. Route starts in obvious foot-wide crack/chimney/gully about ten feet right from the tree. See Routes photo.
There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).
ProtectionTop-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown.