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Routes in 6. Jumble Hotel

Center Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dome Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dome Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Escape TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Turret TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lower Slab Zag TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penthouse Balcony TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rapunzel Arete TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Service Wing TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turret Bypass TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 51 total, 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 2, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Slab climbing "warmup" low, then interesting steeper face high.

From the topside of the obvious tree, step down right. Start on the slab face between the open book on left and a foot-wide crack/gully on right.

Next climb the steeper face between the dihedral gully on the left (without using the crack above the dihedral) and the eight-inch tree on the right (perhaps without using crack to the left of the arete above the tree).

Finish directly up onto "penthouse" block at top of cliff.

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Upper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree. Route starts at obvious foot-wide crack/chimney/gully about ten feet right from the tree. See Routes photo.

There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).

Protection

Top-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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