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Routes in 6. Jumble Hotel

Center Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dome Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dome Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Escape TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Turret TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lower Slab Zag TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penthouse Balcony TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rapunzel Arete TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Service Wing TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turret Bypass TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: TR Sharon+Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 80 total · 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 2, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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From the topside of the obvious tree, step down right, then up the less-deep corner / open book. About eight feet below the protruding mini-tower, step right and up toward a left-trending gully. Over that to the top of the cliff.

Variation (harder): Go up to just below the protruding mini-tower, then up along its right side.
. (or could try going straight over the top of the mini-tower?)

When top-roping this route, it's simplest to finish by standing up on top of the mini-tower / turret. But can also climb to the top of the cliff, perhaps a bit awkward getting over top edge (not unusual for Powerlinez).

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


Upper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree.
See Routes photo.

There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).


Top-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.



More About Turret Bypass