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Guide's 10 (George's Dilemma)
5.10c,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 23
votes
FA: unknown
W Virginia
> Eastern WV
> Smoke Hole Canyon
> Guide Wall
> Sunshine Wall (Guide…
Description
Start is shared with Guide's 11. Climb large reachy pockets to a second bolt. Begin to angle out left and up towards a narrow portion of the roof. Pull the technical crux just past the roof, and proceed onward and upward to cold shuts.
Beware of the very real potential for smaller modern ropes to get jammed in the crack as you pull through the roof moves... This is how the route got its nickname.
Location
Route shares start and first bolt with Guide's 11. After the first bolt, the route bifurcates into Guide's 10 (left) and Guide's 11 (right).
Protection
Nine bolts. Cold shuts at anchor. Shares anchor with Guide's 5.8 way over left- beware the traffic jam.
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