Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,059 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nick Kurland on Dec 30, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Ray Weber

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Start is shared with Guide's 11. Climb large reachy pockets to a second bolt. Begin to angle out left and up towards a narrow portion of the roof. Pull the technical crux just past the roof, and proceed onward and upward to cold shuts.

Beware of the very real potential for smaller modern ropes to get jammed in the crack as you pull through the roof moves... This is how the route got its nickname.

Location

Route shares start and first bolt with Guide's 11. After the first bolt, the route bifurcates into Guide's 10 (left) and Guide's 11 (right).

Protection

Nine bolts. Cold shuts at anchor. Shares anchor with Guide's 5.8 way over left- beware the traffic jam.

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