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Corridor Project
5.13+,
Sport, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: open project, bolted by B. Scott (2014)
Colorado
> Ft Collins
> Lory SP
> Arthur's Rock
> S Face of Arthur's Rock
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per
Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are
in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Per
Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures
May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per
garrett K: The South face of Arthur's Rock is currently CLOSED for raptor nesting as of 4/7/17.
Per
Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/… This is an atypical route for Arthur's with steep, powerful climbing on generally amazing rock (especially for Arthur's). Start with a very hard move right off the ground followed by taxing climbing to the 2nd bolt. Catch a horrible rest here, and launch straight into the V9/10 crux getting into a flared finger jam. More punchy climbing leads to a heart breaker move before the anchor.
Location
To reach this hidden corridor, walk up and left from
Blackish Blobs until the corridor can be seen heading back east towards the summit of Arthur's Rock.
Protection
4 bolts + anchor.
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