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5.8+ Arete

5.8, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 47 votes
FA: unknown
W Virginia > Eastern WV > Smoke Hole Canyon > Guide Wall > Sunshine Wall (Guide…

Description

Climb the pocketed face just left of the arête past two bolts to reach a ledge. Clip third bolt from ledge, which may be difficult to spot from the ground. Move out to the right side of the arête to a tree on the ledge and continue up the right face past four more bolts. Climb up to second ledge, clip fourth bolt and push through the technical crux to reach two more bolts and anchors.

Location

Route starts at corner/arête just left of cave, and is the first route reached at Sunshine Wall (Guide Wall) from the climber's trail.

Protection

Six bolts. Two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route pic
[Hide Photo] Route pic
Matt works out the moves near the 2nd bolt
[Hide Photo] Matt works out the moves near the 2nd bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bradford Mierke
Ashburn, VA
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] This climb is amazing with great holds everywhere, but is a bit scary with a few areas running risk of ledge fall. Great exposure at the top. Aug 19, 2019
Matthew Bernert
Columbus
 
[Hide Comment] This is an adventurous route with ample ledges offering plenty of opportunities to rest. I extended the third bolt with a 60cm sling to reduce rope drag after clipping the fourth bolt from the same ledge. Make sure to turn around at the anchors for a spectacular view of the canyon. May 18, 2021
[Hide Comment] Extending bolt 1 and 3 helps with rope drag.
Don't forget to enjoy the views at the anchor!
To save your rope from twisting up, I recommend rappelling this route when cleaning. Apr 22, 2025