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Routes in Abbey Pond Bouldering

Dark Memories V10 7C+
Eliquent V5 6C
Make Me a Highball! V1+ 5
Melhado's Route V1-2 5
OG Warmup V1-2 5
Open Project V12-13 8B
Out of the Galleys V9- 7C
Read Between the Lines V3+ 6A+ PG13
Rotten and the Wicked, The V8-9 7B+
Swab the Poop Deck V5 6C
Une Saison en Enfer V7+ 7A+
Warmup Traverse V2+ 5+
Will and the Quill V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ethan Y.
Page Views: 100 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ethan Y on Dec 27, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

New line I put up yesterday! Fairly obvious route, but I never wanted to give it a go because of the lack of discernible holds over the overhang and the bad fall potential, with two trees bordering the confines of this route. Turns out it is really good! If nature (or a rogue chainsaw) takes out the tree on the right, this will be the best moderate at Abbey Pond. From the starting holds, hit a long, sharp crimp rail and match. Set your feet and make a stretch out right to a larger, but slightly slick, crimp rail on the edge of the overhang (the tree is now right at your back, making it easy to wedge yourself into the tree-rock crack and scope out the next move). Set the feet high and either launch or reach REALLY high to a bucket hold and top out easily amongst the ferns.

Location

In between the two other problems on the boulder and, more obviously, in between the two trees growing in or out of the boulder. Starts with two finger pockets aligned vertically in a thin seam. Nice feet at the beginning, then it gets tricky!

Protection

pads, good luck, chainsaw (optional).

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