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American Outlaw

5.12d, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Andy Riley equipped by Tyler Hoffart
International > Asia > Myanmar > Mandalay Area > Waterfall Hill… > Monk's Life Wall
Warning Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the extension to Slingshot Monkey. Tyler Hoffart bolted the line and first hypothesized that it was in the 5.13- range in terms of difficulty. The breakdown of the route is like this, 70 feet of consistent 5.12-, fighting through an overhang and technical terrain to a good rest (top of Slingshot Monkey), a 10 foot slopey v5 right into a 15 foot crimpy, reachy v5/6 with a not-great rest between. then you have 3 bolts of about 11+ reachy climbing on jugs and little knobs, then three bolts of victory 5.9 to the anchor (don't blow it). Adds up to a muscley 140ish feet of climbing. If you climb the full line in one pitch, I would recommend extending all of the draws on the first pitch to keep rope drag to a minimum at the top. It takes two lowers/rappels to get to the ground from the top. With a 70 meter rope I had my belayer lower me to the first anchor and then I rapped to the ground from there; This option is probably not possible with a 60 meter rope. If you have a 60 just do two rappels to the ground. Anyway, somebody else do this thing!

Tyler on establishing this line: 

"I got pretty obsessed toward the end of this last week and managed, in one day, to add another full two-pitch route that I’m calling Slingshot Monkey to this tall wall, with this being the tallest of the 3 two-pitchers. Although I had absolutely NO time to even try this route, I would say it has a strong chance at being the first 13a in the area, based on how hard the moves felt on Homage (aka Bridge Bomb Baby) compared to getting stances on Slingshot Monkey and cleaning it all up and trying moves. What will especially make this line difficult is the highly-sustained, second pitch. Pump your face off power moves and a spicy crackish finish. This route completed my journey on this big wall (except the Buddha adventure) and added to the 2 other two-pitch routes on the wall, the excellent 5.10+ 3 Bros and the 5.12cish Homage (aka Bridge Bomb Baby)." 

Location

The extension to the furthest right route on Monk's Life wall.

Protection

Bolts, Carabiners at the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Swimming up a sea of limestone on American Outlaw
[Hide Photo] Swimming up a sea of limestone on American Outlaw
American Outlaw First Ascent
[Hide Photo] American Outlaw First Ascent

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] This route finally went down today, around 4 years after Tyler bolted it. Such an amazing line, what a beast. I really wanted it to be Myanmar's first 5.13, but we'll have to settle for Myanmar's first 7C? It's essentially the first 70 feet that go at 12b and the last 70-80 feet that go at 12c/d?, with several rests thrown in there. I've only climbed a few other routes of this difficulty, and none of them endurance routes. I am very curious to hear more opinions on the grade. Apr 2, 2016
Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] The draws on the first section have been hanging there for a long time, I would recommend that the next party not use them and clean these draws from the wall the next time they climb this route. Jul 2, 2019