American Outlaw [Edit]
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 140 ft|
|Page Views:||169 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Riley on Dec 27, 2015|
Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks Details
This climbing area is intertwined with monasteries and pagodas. It is critical for climbing in Myanmar to maintain these relationships through respectful conduct with the monks and the surrounding areas. Please be modest, respectful, friendly, and responsive to the wishes of the monks and local people. Do not climb on religious monuments, and remove shoes when crossing over established pagoda areas.
This is the extension to Slingshot Monkey. Tyler Hoffart bolted the line and first hypothesized that it was in the 5.13- range in terms of difficulty. The breakdown of the route is like this, 70 feet of consistent 5.12-, fighting through an overhang and technical terrain to a good rest (top of Slingshot Monkey), a 10 foot slopey v5 right into a 15 foot crimpy, reachy v5/6 with a not-great rest between. then you have 3 bolts of about 11+ reachy climbing on jugs and little knobs, then three bolts of victory 5.9 to the anchor (don't blow it). Adds up to a muscley 140ish feet of climbing. If you climb the full line in one pitch, I would recommend extending all of the draws on the first pitch to keep rope drag to a minimum at the top. It takes two lowers/rappels to get to the ground from the top. With a 70 meter rope I had my belayer lower me to the first anchor and then I rapped to the ground from there; This option is probably not possible with a 60 meter rope. If you have a 60 just do two rappels to the ground. Anyway, somebody else do this thing!
The extension to the furthest right route on Monk's Life wall.
Bolts, Carabiners at the anchor.