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Routes in Abbey Pond Bouldering

Dark Memories V10 7C+
Eliquent V5 6C
Make Me a Highball! V1+ 5
Melhado's Route V1-2 5
OG Warmup V1-2 5
Open Project V12-13 8B
Out of the Galleys V9- 7C
Read Between the Lines V3+ 6A+ PG13
Rotten and the Wicked, The V8-9 7B+
Swab the Poop Deck V5 6C
Une Saison en Enfer V7+ 7A+
Warmup Traverse V2+ 5+
Will and the Quill V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ethan Y.
Page Views: 333 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ethan Y on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Left hand up to a big sloper rail, right-hand to a small crimp. Heel-hook or stand strong, and shoot big with the right hand to a sloper pinch up high facing the wrong direction. Hold the barndoor, match and finish.

This problem took me close to a year to send, with a key hold breaking up top a week before I finally found the correct solution. I cleaned this entire boulder for this problem, including removing about 30 pounds of vegetation from the slabby topout. Truthfully, the hardest part of the f.a. was getting ideal temperatures, as the boulder holds moisture for up to a week after a rain and the sloper is damn near useless in hot weather. I really don't have a great handle on the grade of this one--other, stronger climbers have tried it and not been able to hit the hold on the crux move, much less hold onto it. Perhaps it is because I am tall and flexible, or maybe because I spent so much time building muscle memory. A real process putting this up, and I would love any and all feedback!
Top 3 problem in the Middlebury region. I understand how ridiculous this statement is, but this problem really is worth the effort.

Location

Start on the big jug rail on the left side of the Wicked boulder. Walk off the backside.

Protection

couple pads are nice, but the manufactured landing area has leveled out quite nicely

Photos

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