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Routes in Cave area

Anti-meridian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Assless Chaps Extension T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ding Dong's Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Equator T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying Squirrel, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
HoneyComb Dome , The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Japanese Cowboy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Little Tension Whore T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pancakes and Raisins T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prime Meridian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prospector T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sprained Ego T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm Up, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Mike Dobie. FFA: Marcos Costa
Page Views: 50 total, 2/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Another rad Li Ming two-star route. This is a must-do if you are looking for a short, unique challenge. It'd be way more exciting without the bolt, but I clipped it.

Cruiser fist-and-hand jamming leads to narrowing fingers into a seamed-out groove and two hard-earned meters of progress. Clipping the anchor felt cruxy.

Location

Nearly halfway between The Cave and Ding Dong's Crack. The trail runs a couple meters underneath the route. Look for the tall, narrow pillar that creates Little Tension Whore and Chocolate Corner.

Protection

Single set .1 to #3 or #4 is more than enough. Skip the bolt or leave the smallest cams behind.

Photos

Drew Marshall
  5.11-
Drew Marshall  
  5.11-
A fun, funky climb - makes for a stellar route if you link it into Chocolate Corner.
You can skip the bolt with nuts and small cams, and you can free climb into Chocolate Corner at 5.11 instead of doing the tension traverse. Mar 7, 2016