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Terrible Dragon

5.11, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 20 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, doni
New Mexico > Socorro Area > Box Climbing Areas > Southern Box areas > Scarry Wall

Description

Crux is at the 2nd to 3rd bolt. It is easier for taller people. This has a bouldery start, a delicate middle section, and an easy finish.

Location

To the right of Pie Rats Ahoy. Start on left side of boulder/ledge.

Protection

Bolted

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Terrible Dragon
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Terrible Dragon
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Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] There was a very active honey bee nest next to the anchors of this route and the anchors of the 5.10 (pie rats ahoy) next to it on 9 April 2017. The bees didn't bother us while climbing other routes in this area, but I would advise against climbing this route while the hive is active. Apr 18, 2017
Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Finally got to climb this - The bees are still there but the hive is much less active - I am guessing it was swarming the last time I was here. You climb right past the hive - so if you or your belayer aren't comfortable with bees, skip this one. Rappel off, so you can avoid the hive on the way down - they were much more stressed when I lowered past - Made for an exciting clean!! Very cryptic crux but rewarding once you figure it out. Feels V3 to me with more mellow but still balancy climbing after. Good route. Jun 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] Rokpunkt! Nice reachy lead. There were a few bees there-quite chill, and on an easier section. Highly recommended-and gets you away from the schoolroom at the first part of the crag. Apr 16, 2018
Max Dismukes
El Paso, TX
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The bees were very active 4/9/2022--I got stung in the head while climbing past! Luckily the climbing is pretty easy by then and you don't need to go straight over the hive.

Route itself is pretty good, felt barely 5.11 to me, but reachy crux. I'm 6 ft 1. Would be quite a bit harder if you're shorter. Apr 11, 2022