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Routes in Split Rock

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Paul Baird, early '70s
Page Views: 180 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matt Rhodin on Dec 21, 2015
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Not sure if this an established problem, but pretty much just go up the face right in front of the boulder on the ground. A little contrived. There was a hold out left I neglected to use. Start on the lowest crimp rail with a good left hand. Move up on crimps (and a sloper) to the sit down traverse horizontal. Continue straight up for a sketchy (ish) topout on the slab. Super fun.

Location

See photo

Protection

couple pads

Photos

Joe M.    
Yup, I have done that same line with those holds and even less. Even worked out a variation to avoid as many of the best holds and use some of the slopers there. Cool little section of rock! Dec 23, 2015
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
 
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
 
Thanks for the history! I did notice a lot of potential for variations. This is the line I took
youtube.com/watch?v=BWEit2j… Dec 22, 2015
Joe M.    
I have done several really good eliminates on this face. There are some really fun holds that you can mix and match to make some good problems, especially when there is lots of snow and this is the only dry rock around... Dec 22, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
That looks like 'Paul's Waltz', a problem from the early 70's, FA - Paul Baird, the pioneer of LW. In some old notes he gave me he called it 5.10. Between it and Poly's Nose, L to Rt, he lists 'Plumb Line'5.11+, FA Chuck Boyd early '80s, then 'Bob's Mantle' 5.11+ FA Neil Pothier, early 80's. Between Paul's Waltz and the split he mentions three more routes, all FA Paul Baird, early 70's, R to L 'Ground Round', 'Hidden Flake' and 'Edge Lieback'. Looks like he and his friends started climbing every variation of every square inch early! Dec 21, 2015