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Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears

Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbidden Fruit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Amy Ness, Myles Moser, Richard Shore 12/18/15 GU
Page Views: 701 total · 28/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Dec 21, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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To the right of Adam's Rib, Eve's Wang, and God's Grace, Forbidden Fruit forges a line through the imposing black diorite band and onto the steep and exposed Southeast Buttress of Wells Peak. Brilliantly featured faces and thin slabs connect discontinuous but classic cracks right up the prow of the buttress. The route ends on the peak's prominent southern sub-summit, and is equipped with fixed belays allowing for a convenient descent.

P1) Climb flakes up the gully, then cut right onto runout but solid diorite (slick!) past a few fixed pins. Piton belay at the white pillar. 5.8 55M

P2) RF corner to knobby face, then follow embedded diorite rails arching out right past some bolts and a pin to a bolted belay. 5.10 50M

P3) A bolt protects entry into a long splitter finger-to-hand crack. Bolted belay on large sloping ledge to the right. 5.10 60M

P4) Face climb past a cool hueco and head left to a finger crack, then up easier slab to a bolted belay on a good ledge. 5.10+ 35M

P5) Thin face and slab past 6 bolts and a pin, working left to a bolted anchor alongside a big wide crack. Crux, 5.11 35M

P6) Tight flare with deep hands and fists, right past a bush and over a small roof. Bolt/pin anchor at a stance on the headwall crack. 5.9+ 35M

P7) Follow the hand crack until it peters out, then move left past 2 bolts and the final crux. Spectacular & exposed above leads to a bolted anchor just below the top. 5.10 50M

Short 3rd class scramble up the tiny summit pinnacle.


Doubles to 3", stoppers. All belays are fixed. To descend, rappel the route with 2 ropes. Pitches 4, 5, and 6 can be rapped with a single 70M. Bring extra throw-away cord for the anchors.
Hand drilled 3/8"......Proud! Dec 23, 2015
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
Looks most excellent! Done ground up on a short December day? Impressive!! Dec 21, 2015