Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: C. Paiement
Page Views: 529 total · 14/month
Shared By: JTLA Tolins on Dec 19, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

climb 15 feet of easy slab to a left facing flake system. BETA ALERT: Work up the flake before transitioning right to a small hueco with a pinchy sidepull on the right side. About two feet higher there's a seam with two hidden crimps. From there transition straight right to a large ledge. welcome to the crux. It was originally done straight up using a nasty mono for the left hand (12a). There's an alternative slightly right (11c). Once you figure out how to get to the high pocket just below the roof, trend right to a hidden undercling rail and out the right side of the roof. end on the same anchors as beetard

cleaning on your way down can lead to a surprisingly full on swing

Location

Under the large lower right facing roof. Some kind soul saw fit to spray paint "Fuck Tard" right around the start

Protection

8 bolds

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
seem? Perhaps that's a seam.

Waco? Waco is a place. Perhaps that's Hueco...or hole in spanish. Aug 28, 2016