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Routes in Secret Canyon

Desert Mule T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rotten Rock Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snaggletooth Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wild Woman Spire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jake Dayley, Amylee Thornhill - 12/2/15
Page Views: 92 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Dec 18, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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P1: 5.9 or 5.10, 45'. Start on the North face from the notch. The crux of this spire is the very bottom. Either take a nasty 5.9 squeeze chimney boulder problem with poor pro or a stout 5.10 boulder problem to the left with good pro. Either way, top out and climb low angle chossy rock up and left to a spooky pillar at the limestone band. The leader on the FA pulled a microwave sized block onto himself here so be careful. Continue around on a nice ledge to the SE face and belay off gear at the base of a good looking crack.

P2: 5.9, 45'. Climb the nice thin hands to hand crack for 30, clip a bolt and face climb to the summit. Belay off rap anchors.

Summit is a cool island in the sky of desert flora.

Rap - 90' back to your packs


The obvious stubby spire to the right (East) of Secret Spire (Desert Mule). The approach is the same as for Desert Mule. Continue past the base of Desert Mule and up into the notch. Also see the area overview photo on the Secret Canyon page.


Double set fingers to #2 Camalots
optional extra mid-sized pieces.