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Routes in Secret Canyon

Desert Mule T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rotten Rock Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snaggletooth Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wild Woman Spire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jake Dayley, Eric Greene - 5/1/05
Page Views: 159 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Dec 18, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

P1: 5.8, 80'. Climb the obvious South face crack/chimney to the cave about halfway up the spire. Belay on two bolts. This cave tunnels all the way through the spire!

P2: 5.9, 70'. Wild!!! Climb out the roof through chockstones then into a hand crack on the vertical face above. Scramble to the summit.

Rap - Rap the route. I cannot remember what I left to rap with so bring some tat and a few leaver biners.

Location [Suggest Change]

This spire is two formations to the left of Wild Woman (as seen from the trail). The formation in between is not a spire. From the trail watch for a low ridge that climbs up towards the spires. Bushwhack up to this ridge and continue up to the spires. At the top, head left over to Snaggletooth. Also see the overview photo on the Secret Canyon page

Protection [Suggest Change]

Doubles from thin fingers to #3 Camalots.
Bolted anchors.

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