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Routes in Secret Canyon

Desert Mule T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rotten Rock Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snaggletooth Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wild Woman Spire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jake Dayley, Amylee Thornhill - 11/30/14
Page Views: 187 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Dec 18, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

West face crack system.

P1: 90' 5.10. Scramble up low angle terrain to the limestone band. Traverse right to reach the bottom of the crack system. Fingers to hands then an awkward move into the pod. Make a few moves left and into a second crack. Ascend this through some unique terrain to the Pinyon the top. Tree belay.

Move the belay up blocky terrain to the base of the summit block - 30'

P2: 5.10, 30'. Face climb the summit block past one bolt and an "old school" 5.9 mantle to the summit.

Rap - 115' down the west face to the notch. One 70M will make it.

Location

This is the obvious block on top spire that can be seen from miles away on Dry Creek road. When looking from the trail up at the whole spire complex it is the farthest right. There is no good approach but here are vague directions. Once you are about even with the spire on the trail look for a low ridge that ascends up towards the spire. Bushwhack up to this ridge and follow it up. If you are on the right one you will end up just left (west) of the spire. Also see the overview photo on the Secret Canyon page.

Protection

Doubles from thin fingers to #2 Camalot.
#3 and #4 Camalot optional.

Photos

Amylee T
Flagastaff, AZ
 
Amylee T   Flagastaff, AZ
 
I loved the climbing on this route. outside of the limestone band, quality rock and good moves. Fun to put up! Dec 30, 2015