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> Asia
> China
> Yunnan Province
> Lijiang Area
> Liming (黎明)
> Lisu Area
> Pillars area
Orange Crescent
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Pillars area
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[Redacted] T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Clam Digger T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sandworm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Eben Farnworth 2012 FFA David Hood 2014 |
| Page Views: | 645 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Brandon Gottung on Dec 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
While Orange Crescent does not live up to its 5 stars seen in the guidebook, it is an awesome corner that is worth the tedious access, especially if Faraway Corner is one of your favorites.
Orange Crescent is a clean, right-angled corner with fists slowly tapering down through hands to fingers to a cool thin finish.
Orange Crescent is a clean, right-angled corner with fists slowly tapering down through hands to fingers to a cool thin finish.
Location
Walk up valley (climbers right) from Dancing with Dragons and Over the Rainbow to where the trail cliffs out with a four bolt traverse. Rack up here. It is not really worth shoe-ing up to free this bit, but it does offer a move at 5.11 if you want. Otherwise just carry the climbing shoes and aid across. There is a comfortable vegetation-and-dirt belay ledge below Orange Crescent.
For a descent, its fastest combining the rappel and the traverse providing unique opportunity for clever rope work.
For a descent, its fastest combining the rappel and the traverse providing unique opportunity for clever rope work.
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