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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 217 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Dec 14, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is an old route that has been straightened out and extended to the top of the cliff (the extension is known as Fistful of Draws). It is almost all 5.8 climbing with a single hard move on P3. The rock is naturally clean throughout, and every pitch is high quality.

P1 5.8 G: Go up to the dike with no protection, then traverse right to a left-facing corner (first protection here; 5.5 R up to this point). Up the corner to its top, then up and left (bolts and gear) to an overlap. Over this (crux) to gain a crack that begins as tips and widens to hands higher up. This "Exasperator-like" crack is stellar. At the top of the crack, mantel onto a ledge, then step left to a fixed anchor on its far left side. 140'

Above the P1 ledge is a giant "death" flake adhered to the cliff by magic. The route cleverly avoids this monstrosity.

If you rappel from this anchor, be aware of flakes that may snag your rope.

Also know that the crack expands and contracts with heat from the sun. A nut placed in this crack in the morning may be irretrievable later in the day.

P2 5.8 G: Step left from the anchor and make a couple hard moves up past bolts to better holds. Trend up and right past horizontals and a small right-facing corner. Pure friction up and right across a blank slab leads to a perfect perch and fixed anchor. 80'

P3 5.10b G: Step right and friction straight up a slab to a tiny left-arching overlap that sits below a giant roof. Follow the left-arching overlap to its left end, then friction left under the large roof until you can reach above the roof to jugs. Make a puzzling move over the roof (5.10b crux, or A0 if you pull on the bolt), to a good stance. Continue straight up on knobs and edges to a horizontal, then go up and left to a fixed anchor. 130'

P4 5.8 G: Go straight up a narrow, clean section of pocketed rock to the open slab above. Cross a left-leaning crack and up a final slab to a fixed anchor. 80'

Descent: Every belay is fixed and it's possible to rappel from any of them. However, the straightest and best pulls are as follows: From the top, rappel 200' to the P2 anchor, then another 200' rappel to the base.

The top anchor sits in a bowl just below the rim. It is possible to friction up and right to the very top of the cliff and walk off climbers left. You can also walk 150' left and use the Sole Fusion rappels (all bolted stations), thereby allowing you to scope that route (and maybe toprope some of the pitches).

Location

Walk right from Sole Fusion to where the cliff-base terrain goes steeply uphill. Go up this hill until you can break left following a narrow, vegetated ledge up and left to some trees.

Begin below a faint horizontal dike in the slab.

Protection

P1: Standard rack to 2".
P2: Draws plus #0.3 and #3 Camalots.
P3: Draws.
P4: Draws plus optional #2 Camalot.

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