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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) AKA Hang Ten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
15. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
19 - Unknown slab 4 S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardiac Bypass Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Earl's memorial route S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch the Slick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Dive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Megaflake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Slab 3 S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zizag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: TR, soloed by Eric Sutton, late 1980s
Page Views: 823 total · 24/month
Shared By: will ar on Dec 13, 2015
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Access Issue: Raven Closure & Parking Details

Description

Start on the left side of the arete, and work your way to the right following the line of bolts to the crimpy finish. If anyone knows the original name or FA info, please post up.

Location

Ascend the arete on the right side of the large roof on Africa Buttress.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Cardiac ArĂȘte, originally a top rope that was soloed by Eric Sutton in the late 1980s. Oct 28, 2016
Dylan Levar
New England
 
Dylan Levar   New England
 
There's a chance of seriously damaging the rope when falling on this route. I had to chop ~3m. Apr 2, 2017
will ar
San Antonio, TX
 
will ar   San Antonio, TX
 
"There's a chance of seriously damaging the rope when falling on this route. I had to chop ~3m."
Where did you fall, and what did your rope get damaged on? I haven't fallen on the route, so I can't be sure, but I don't recall any sharp features that your rope could run over. Apr 4, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
I core-shot a rope falling at the top crux of this route Saturday. Didn't see a hand hold and thought I couldn't reach the last bolt to clip a draw. I pulled into the top crux just before the chains and popped off there. The rope must have gotten snagged on the arĂȘte, and it nearly severed. Jul 10, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
Used a quicklink to fix a draw on the last bolt. Clipping that before committing to the top moves should prevent potential rope damage. Aug 1, 2017

More About Cardiac Arete (aka route 8)

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