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Puños del 11

5.8, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 11 votes
FA: Aristeo Lima
International > N America > Mexico > Estado de Mexico > Aculco > f) Puños del Once

Description

Climb the long, widening crack that is about 30 or so feet to the left (toward the cascade) from the prow. At the top you can escape up an easier chimney.

Rated 5.7 in the 2013 guidebook (pages 136-37), this climb is at least as hard as Dogleg (5.8) at Joshua Tree.

Location

This is about the 14th route right of El Nopal. It's located roughly four climbs left of the prow, where the cliff turns sharply left.

Protection

Carry doubles up to a purple Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About to enter the improbable finger crack. Bon Voyage
[Hide Photo] About to enter the improbable finger crack. Bon Voyage
The right crack in the photo is Puños del Once.
[Hide Photo] The right crack in the photo is Puños del Once.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JimC25
 
[Hide Comment] Good climb to start off in area. Crack climbing but have other ways to climb to ease into the business. Think it is a hard 5.7, but it is all there. [BETA ALERT] Once you commit to finger crack there are huge hidden jugs in crack once you get to the point you feel like you are going to peel. Feb 21, 2017
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great climb, great length, a little bit of everything. Jan 24, 2022