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Routes in Spire North of Rockfellow Group

South Face (unknown) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: TB & SA
Page Views: 130 total · 5/month
Shared By: Paul Zander on Dec 11, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 for falcon nesting Details

Description

A tasty dessert at the end of the day (or warm-up) that gets you to a cool little summit with a great view. The crux is steep pulling on positive holds at the start (very well protected with bolts). After the 4th or 5th bolt the angle and difficulty ease up, and bolts become more spaced.

Be careful with a 60m rope on this route! Ours made the rappel with about 1 foot to spare.

If you know the name, FA, or grade of this route, post a comment and I will update this page. Don't trust my rating.

Location

The south face of the spire, this route faces Be All End All.

Protection

This is essentially a sport route (8-10 bolts?), but most will want a piece between the last bolt and anchor. Bomber medium nut or small cams could work.

Photos

Paul Zander
Bern, CH
 
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
 
Probably the same route, I thought the start was pretty stout for a .9, but maybe I was just tired from climbing all day (whodda thunk?). This route is in such a convenient location, I'm sure many others have done it, so hopefully others will post their opinion of the grade.

Tanya confirmed the FA, and they have not yet named it. Dec 14, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
I believe the FA is Tanya Bok & Scott Ayers. You can confirm by contacting her at cochiseclimbing.com. My notes indicate 5.9 mixed but I have a vague recollection of there being two routes on this formation. Dec 12, 2015