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Routes in Suction Gully

Crying Dinosaur T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lickety Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spider Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rink and Langmade
Page Views: 89 total, 4/month
Shared By: sean peters on Dec 9, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Multiple cruxes will be discovered while on the route. The first pitch has a solid crack with good gear and a difficult to enter chimney. The second pitch has a decent crack with alright rock and a few moderately difficult 5.9 moves...There is a two bolt belay off right at and obvious, solid ledge (about 100 feet). From belay a short, somewhat unprotected and difficult face climb leads to a two piton belay in a large chimney. Either stop here or continue another 50 feet to a single bolt belay higher up in the chimney.
We stopped at the piton belay due to time constraints but the remaining 50 feet to the single bolt "looked" easier and maybe a bit rotten.

Location

The route is easily recognized by the bombay chimney(s) on the approach. Use the same approach as Spider Walk, Rink-Kudo or Hobgoblin Spire routes.

Protection

Bolted belays. Lots of nuts and cams to #4. Double rope rappel from pitch three (off two pitons) and single rope rappel from top of pitch one (horrible, old bolts).

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