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Routes in Chockstone Chimney Wall

Changing Corners T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Myles Small, Steve Beeson. 1999
Page Views: 246 total, 10/month
Shared By: Billy Danger on Dec 9, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1: 10a. Start up a dirty, left facing corner on the right side of the massive chimney. Pull a cruxy move over a bulge. This pitch sucks, but it's fairly well protected and only about 60 feet long. Belay in the chimney. I found better rock and a better crack to the climber's left of the fixed piton.

P2: 10b. Move up and right onto the arete, passing some solid but questionable rock. Climb the arete past a few bolts and solid gear, making a classic move to the left at the end by a tree. Build a gear belay on a nice ledge just above the tree. This pitch is great, and was surprisingly clean when we did it. The bolts also looked to be in good shape.

P3: 5.9. It is possible to head up and right on easier terrain, but the route actually turns a roof to the left and follows a crack feature to the top. While this pitch would benefit from a good brushing, it has fun climbing and spaced but reasonable gear.

Location

The route starts on the right side of the obvious huge chimney in a dirty, left facing crack/corner.

Protection

I remember placing a bunch of .3 and .4 sized cams, as well as a few hand sized pieces. The crux pitch has 2 or 3 bolts, as well as a variety of gear options in horizontals.

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