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La Cabaretera

5.10, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 10 votes
FA: Eduardo Mosqueda
International > N America > Mexico > Estado de Mexico > Aculco > c) Cabaretera

Description

This is one of the best routes in the canyon. Begin with 7 meters of perfect hand jamming to a weird crux and a rest. Get into the flaring crack, place a .75 or 1 BD, and then go over the roof. Truly amazing. Fun and varied. Long and sustained.

Location

You can't miss it. It's the only route in the canyon with a perfect hand crack. You can also spot it due to a large boulder that lies on the bed of the canyon and used to be right under the roof.

Protection

Pro 1" to 3.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crux.
[Hide Photo] Crux.
Cruising the first section of hands.
[Hide Photo] Cruising the first section of hands.
Start of Cabaretera.
[Hide Photo] Start of Cabaretera.
Whole route.
[Hide Photo] Whole route.