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Routes in The Far Side - Ivory Coast

Ivory Coast S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: Eric Berghorn 2012
Page Views: 448 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ed Henicle on Dec 9, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The route starts out with 50 feet of low angle slab climbing past four bolts (5.6), after negotiating past a loose section, a good stance is gained on a detached pinnacle at the base of a steep headwall. The route than ascends the center of the headwall, clipping five more bolts to a chain anchor. The crux is a well protected mantle.

Location

Ivory Coast is located approx 300 yds. due west of Seymor Frishberg and Boneless Chicken Ranch. From Seymor Frishberg, scramble up to the Lichen It/Far Thing belay ledge, then follow the trail west to the base of Ivory Coast. Near the base, you will scramble over some rocks (look for cairn), up some short switch backs, then scramble down to the base of the climb

Protection

8 quick draws + anchor

There is also a 10a crack variation finish. Balancy and fun - pro to 3"

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
I climbed it with friends back in December 2013. There were 8 protection bolts, plus the anchor. The last two bolts were farther right than I wanted; my left arm got really tired while clipping them! We thought it was easier than 5.10d--although we finished on the crack (apparently the 5.10a way), which we thought was the way the route was supposed to go (we didn't even consider climbing right of the crack).
Jun 3, 2016
Alec Sluser
Concord CA
Alec Sluser   Concord CA
Climbed this last week, saw only 8 bolts. There were 4 bolts on the 5.9 scramble up, then another 4 on the actual 5.10d portion of the climb. Might of missed a bolt on the transition from the 5.9-5.10d part. Either way, well protected and fun route. Mar 23, 2016