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Routes in Hot Tuna Tower

Chicken of the Sea (aka North Ridge) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violet Green T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Bob Harrington & James Wilson, June 1978
Page Views: 269 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Dec 7, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fantastic and varied line straight up the sweeping central buttress on Hot Tuna Tower. A healthy sandbag at 5.9 by the first ascent party; modern climbers seem to find terrain no easier than 5.10c.

P1) Runout slab up to the big right-leaning corner. It is probably best to stop and belay at the base of the corner. We linked with the corner above for a long 60M pitch, and rope drag sucked. 5.9R

P2) Right leaning corner that varies from tips to hands, belay on a large flake/block above. 5.10c

P3) Up the right-facing corner to a sloping belay ledge. 5.9. There is a mysterious 2 bolt (3/8") anchor 20' up and left on the face from here that could also be used - this is not indicated on the topo.

P4) Up and right on easy runout face and slab to a ledge with broken blocks. 5.4R

P5) Step around the corner and up through a large bush, then straight up cracks. A couple fixed pins near the end of the pitch protect a few thin cruxes. Old 1/4" bolted anchor. 5.10

P6) Thin face off the belay to a crack, then more fixed pins protecting thin cruxy sections. Work up through steep and somewhat runout chickenheads to a belay ledge. 5.10 PG

P7) Steep chickenheads lead to an airy traverse out right onto the edge of the arete, then follow a wide hands crack through a short chimney pod. Belay at a marginal stance inside a crack after you step left. 5.7R

P8) Up and right following cracks to the summit ridge. 5.7. From here, unrope and walk around the summit block. Solo up/down the exposed and unprotected 50' summit block on it's SW side, 5.5.

Location

Starts up a clean right-leaning dihedral, left of the prominent Rowell/Belden Open Book Route.

To descend, we took the first major gully to climbers left of the summit - this required numerous single-rope rappels off trees and chockstones with some easy downclimbing to get back to our packs at the base. Straightforward and quick with many slings already in place. According to the guidebook, the second gully to climbers left is possible to descend without rappels.

Protection

Double rack from tiny to 3", a handful of fixed pins, one bolted anchor (1/4"). Lots of bail slings exist on the route..

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