PRINT: Rock Climb Zot, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Zot

5.11d R, Trad, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 31 votes
FA: George Rosenthal & Tim Wolfe, 1988
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Plumb Line Gully

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Typical LCC slabbing at an incredible and improbable angle. Work your way up unique chickenhead mantles interspersed by spacial voids of holds.
Finally finish up the last part of the climbing on slightly easier but just as committing moves far above your last bolt. Top out directly or traverse to the Plumb Line chains.

Location

10 feet to the right of Plumb Line is a giant chickenhead. Surmount the chickenhead, clip the bolt, and try to make it to the next one without falling. Repeat.

Protection

3 bolts. You can try to put in a very small cam at the top but it's an exercise in futility. Good news: the lower cruxes are all protected by a bolt.

Can be TR’d from the top or Plumb Line anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gerald on the crux

Jules star

Andy past crux 2 and enjoying the giant chickenheads. Now the final business...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT

5.11d R

I have never known anyone else to climb this route. George and I spent many hours over a few days trying to free this route (it was put in ground up, hand drilled). We each fell 30-40 times off the first moves - the crux. Finally and improbably - George stuck the move and got up on top of the chicken head. I tossed him the drill. He put two bolts in the middle section, clipped the 3rd bolt after drilling it and climbed to the top. The R rating is all about the final third of the route - 5.8 unprotected moves. Funny thing, the day we succeeded we got hassled about what a squeeze the route was by some guys who were much better technical climbers. Then they tried it. Nothing more said. Many other routes were "squeezed" in by them in this canyon over future years. Jan 11, 2016

Charlie S
TN? NV? UT?

5.11d

Thanks for the great history and comments, Tim! We just TRed it and were shut down multiple times. It has some really unique movement. Jan 11, 2016

Miguel D
SLC

After climbing Plumb Line, we decided to give this a try, not knowing what route it was. Also got shut down several times making the first few moves after the first bolt. Tough stuff! Aug 31, 2016

johann solo
Sandy

5.12-

Desperately thin and crumbling holds from the first bolt to the jug, just a few very hard moves. 12 for sure in the temps. Need to try on a cold shady day. Very good if the holds stay. Oct 6, 2018

johann solo
Sandy

5.12-

Crumbled the very small crystal I was using but it left an even smaller dime sized edge that I was able to use and do the move. Now to go lead it. Oct 18, 2018

johann solo
Sandy

5.12-

I led this yesterday. After doing the move last Wednesday, the left hand flake crumbled but I now use a very small zenolith with the left hand a little higher which is solid. It is also possible to traverse right below the first bolt on zeno's and some dubious crumblers which is slightly easier. The low traverse may be 11d but going up then right seems like 12a at least. A great route! Oct 30, 2018

Jaden Aland
Riverton, UT

5.12- R

Led to the 3rd bolt. The holds on the moves between the 1st and 2nd are still pretty crumbly. Great movement thereafter. Nov 12, 2019

Alex Temus
Lehi, UT

That lower crux is really something. I spent half an hour after the first bolt looking for any tiny edges I could see, but only succeeded in breaking every edge that I tried. If that many features turned to gravel just on my single session, I have to think the route has changed character over the years.

In its current state, it's maybe less a "crux" and more a glass sheet. Like would we really give a grade to a blank metal wall? or just dismiss that it's a route at all?

That said, skipping that section by climbing Plumb Line, then top roping the rest of the route is enjoyable enough Apr 16, 2023

Nate H
Salt Lake City, UT

Makes for a great ~5.10 A0 to do on TR after Plumb Line. Awesome swing from the first bolt and dyno up to the jug

I'd love to see someone lead that crux, such a stiff line Dec 5, 2024