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La Quinta

5.10, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
FA: Peabody, Snyder
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak… > Oak Creek Spire… > Oak Creek Spire

Description

La Quinta is the splitter crack system left of the regular route. This two pitch variation is a fun addition, avoids the block party on the regular route, and is a nice rappel option if you're not rapping with two ropes.

Pitch 1: 5.8+

Start on pitch 1 of regular route.

Pitch 2: 5.10

Route begins left of regular route on large ledge. Start on right hand crack. Traverse on hand rail to offwidth crux and continue on hand crack thinning to .5 roof, jug crimps to pull the lip.

Pitch 3: 5.9+

Continue up corner system through sandy beach ledges to #4 stem bulge. Traverse out to bolt, go full Mace and ditch the helmet under roof and pull lip gaining #6 crack with a variety of patina edges for feet and holds.

This route is an homage to my time spent in hotels as a rope tech, living in La Quita inns and refusing to give up my love for choss, adventure, and cousinry. Also confirmed by this urban dictionary definition:

urbandictionary.com/define.…

Location

Crack system to the left of the regular route on pitch 1 ledge.

Protection

Runners, Single set c3, doubles to #3. Single #4, #6. (optional #5 to build anchor for jump across)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

J Peabody, 2nd pitch on the first ascent
[Hide Photo] J Peabody, 2nd pitch on the first ascent
J. Peabody in the 3rd pitch roof on the first ascent
[Hide Photo] J. Peabody in the 3rd pitch roof on the first ascent
La Quinta 5.10<br>
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2 pitch variation to regular route
[Hide Photo] La Quinta 5.10 2 pitch variation to regular route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey Snyder
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] One of my more favorite days in Sandona. Two great pitches on top of each other. Splitters, traverses, roofs, oh my.

Dare I say... possibly a better 'full value' option to summit this classic tower. Dec 4, 2015
JimmyK
Scottsdale, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent and sustained climbing. After clipping the bolt and traversing left on P3, climb up and left of the offwidth, not in it. Mar 9, 2020
[Hide Comment] Whats the shade situation with this climb? Looking for a shady option for the coming summer months May 11, 2021
Jeff Peabody
Albuquerque
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Im pretty positive the climb is N N/W facing, the hike is long and will be but but the climbing is pretty shaded. May 20, 2021