Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Alan Collins, Route prepared and bolted by Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 3,246 total · 44/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Dec 4, 2015
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Sweet as Hank

Sweet as Hank can be found on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall located by The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This single pitch overhanging route is located to the far left side of the wall starting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab gains access to the route.
Start out high in the gully carefully clipping the first bolt. Face climb through spacey 5.11 moves up to bolt 6. After making an awkward clip, from here this is where the overhang climbing begins. Start to meander your way through the roof section starting out on good edges, quickly working into the crux section. A key sloping hold and a series of good edged crimps set you up to either bump, or cross through to good edged side pulls. Clip bolt 10 and set up for the final sequence working off of a good edge and high under clinging hold above your head, throwing to a good hold above. Stick the slap and keep moving to clip bolt 11. Finish climbing up and right on good jugs leading to permanent steel anchors.

11 bolts, Fixed steel anchors

Protection

11 Bolts, Fixed Steel Anchors

Location

This route is located to the far left side of the Hank Wall sitting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab is required to access this route.

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