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Routes in The Hank Collins Memorial Wall

A Big Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Little Tease S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Entry Fee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Die Young, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hank Spire, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanky Panky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet as Hank S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tommy TwoTone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Collins, Route prepared and bolted by Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 1,295 total, 52/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Dec 4, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Sweet as Hank

Sweet as Hank can be found on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall located by The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This single pitch overhanging route is located to the far left side of the wall starting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab gains access to the route.
Start out high in the gully carefully clipping the first bolt. Face climb through spacey 5.11 moves up to bolt 6. After making an awkward clip, from here this is where the overhang climbing begins. Start to meander your way through the roof section starting out on good edges, quickly working into the crux section. A key sloping hold and a series of good edged crimps set you up to either bump, or cross through to good edged side pulls. Clip bolt 10, shake and set up for the final big throw off of a good sloping pinch and potenital quartzite undercling high above your head (very height dependent), throwing to a jug just above. Stick the dead point/dyno, clip bolt 11 and pull through on finishing jugs up to the permanent steel anchors.

11 bolts, Fixed steel anchors

Protection

11 Bolts, Fixed Steel Anchors

Location

This route is located to the far left side of the Hank Wall sitting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab is required to access this route.

Photos

CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12c
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12c
This thing is super fun! I didn't think the lower section was sporty or spacey at all. I haven't climbed at the New but feel like this would be like that. Long moves between good holds and a ledgy break near most bolts. Then a super fun powerful sprint through terrain that is really steep for Smith standards.

All the holds are bomber and only little flakes and dirty spots will clean up. Really quality route! Oct 28, 2017