Type: Ice, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Chas Wilson, 1996
Page Views: 1,141 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Dec 3, 2015
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Aron Quiter

You & This Route

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Though there's often a bit of ice here and there this route rarely forms enough to climb. It had been toproped by some big names before the first lead and that's probably the way most climbers will enjoy this route. The route was named by the first ascensionist after a friend who died on Mount Shasta.

When it is "in" it's still quite thin and delicate in places and requires thoughtful climbing if you want to leave ice for anyone else.


This is the farthest left pure ice route on this side of the narrows. It's to the right of a small tree growing out of the cliff, and left of a big-hands crack that runs to the top.


If you're leading, short screws and maybe thin pins. At the top are some old rusty bolts that are often covered up. A better option is a finger-to-hand sized crack in good rock a few feet higher.

To toprope, scramble up low 5th class at the right end of the cliff to access the big ledge above the route. You'll need a 70m rope to toprope or lower off from your lead.