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Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 2800 ft (848 m), Grade IV |
FA: | n/a |
Page Views: | 1,046 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Tim Wolfe on Dec 3, 2015 |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
This is a difficult Ferrata up the South Face of Piz Boe. It climbs about 900 meters of rock, 300 meters of which are cabled. It offers some more difficult and exposed moves, stunning scenery (as usual) and a cold beer at the top with the option of a quick tram ride or long walk down. The crux is the initial 50-75 feet of the route where it is dead vertical and smooth as glass with slippery foot holds - usually requiring an over hand ascent of the cable. A short section of rope is useful if you have young kids or inexperienced climbers that might need a belay up the start of the route. Continue following the route as it zig zags up, then traverses left along a ledge, up a chimney, across a suspension bridge and then up a crest to easier walking. At this point you can either traverse left to Forcella Pordoi and down the gully, or continue over to the Rifugio Maria and take the tram down, or you can continue up the crest then connect with path 638 to the summit of Piz Boe then reverse your way to one of the descents.
Location
Location: The route starts from near the top of Passo Pordoi and ascends the south face of Piz Boe to the right of the cable car.
Approach: To access the cable you have several options: Buy a round trip ticket to the cable car and take it to the summit of Sass Pordoi, traverse east then down Pordoi gully, then further east along the path to the base of the cable. Alternately walk up along the path from the base of the tram all the way east to the cable. The most direct approach is to drive further along the road to the WWI memorial (Ossario Del Pordoi) and hike up the steep path 1 to 1.5 hours directly to the base of the route.
Descent: From the top of the cable, or the summit of Piz Boe, head west to the Forcella Pordoi. At this point you can either descend the gully back to the road and your car, or head a bit further west to Rifugio Maria and take a quick ride down the tram.
Approach: To access the cable you have several options: Buy a round trip ticket to the cable car and take it to the summit of Sass Pordoi, traverse east then down Pordoi gully, then further east along the path to the base of the cable. Alternately walk up along the path from the base of the tram all the way east to the cable. The most direct approach is to drive further along the road to the WWI memorial (Ossario Del Pordoi) and hike up the steep path 1 to 1.5 hours directly to the base of the route.
Descent: From the top of the cable, or the summit of Piz Boe, head west to the Forcella Pordoi. At this point you can either descend the gully back to the road and your car, or head a bit further west to Rifugio Maria and take a quick ride down the tram.
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