All Locations > International > North America > Canada > Alberta > Icefields Parkway > Mount Murchison
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 530 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||449 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Rone on Dec 2, 2015|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
DescriptionGnarly. In the rare years that it comes in, it not only looks gnarly, it climbs gnarly. Virtual Reality lies just 30m to the right of Murchison Falls, but the two routes have almost nothing in common, except maybe the similarities of the first pitch.
P1, 60m WI4+: Climb up good, undulating ice through several steep steps to a comfortable belay on a big ledge
P2, 35m WI5: Continue up short pitch on steep, varied ice to a comfortable belay on a ledge.
P3, 40m WI6: The crux pitch, which forms differently over the years, begins by stepping left from the belay. It will likely involve climbing very steep, and sometimes rotten ice through a collection of pillars. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when the ice is thin. Set up a belay as the good ice comes to an end.
P4, 30m, WI3+: Continue up from the belay, then traverse ice and snow up to the right until you're on top.
Head to the top of Murchison Falls, and find the bolted rappel station on the very right hand (climber's right) side of the route. Find or build v-thread rap stations on the way down.