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Routes in Watergroove Wall

Blessing In De-skies T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dry Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mustache T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pioneer's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Premero T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Two For One T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 158 total, 6/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Dec 2, 2015
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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This shorter climb has a little bit of everything. Most of the difficulty is at the beginning and eases the closer you get to the anchors. It is well-protected for TRSP standards.

Look for two bolts close together near the ground. Start off to the right and traverse in on big crystal knobs. Clip the first bolt and make the difficult and technical moves to get to a solid stance at the second bolt. Then enjoy some cool face climbing with gear. Get above your gear and make some exciting moves at the water groove until you reach the bulge. Plug some more pro here and pull into the fun final water groove to the anchors. There is another piece of gear midway between the anchors.

Location

Towards the right end of the Water Groove Wall. Go past the long low roof. The climb starts in front of a very skinny pine tree next to the cliff just below newer shiny bolts near the ground. A single 60m will get you down from the two bolt anchor.

Protection

A few quickdraws for the first two bolts, then double up on the TCU finger size with singles to #1 camalot. A couple of 12"-24" draws were nice. Since the gear is well-spaced, double up when you can. Save a couple of finger sized pieces for the upper water groove to ease the runout to the anchor.

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