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JJ Goes to Hollywood

5.11, Trad, 150 ft,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Davidson, John Juraschek
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 3 - Windy Point… > Punch & Judy Towers

Description

In honor of Johnny J. leaving Tucson for a stint in Hollyweird. Before he was famous as the Access Fund's leader.
Rock rarely sees the sun, is covered by thin layer of slippery dust. There would probably be some good sport climbs back in here on good red rock. This is not one of those. But it is sporty. I seem to recall some full body stems here and there.
I suspect most climbers would curse this route. It's for those of you who are somewhat twisted and like climbing wide and weird. My recollection is it was 5.11 to 11+ but we did it onsight, ground up and I believe no falls (the benefit of 30 years later writing something up. The mind can convince you it was total flash when it could well have involved multiple hangs.)
I think you want to be climbing in control on this one. Falling off in chimneys is not a good idea. This one does widen and turn into a face climb, eventually and I think that might be the crux? Recorded just for the history of the area. And for those looking for something different.

Location

In the chimney system up and around climber's right from Mondo Bizzaro. Climb up the first place you can stem/chimney across the two walls trying to find crack systems on each wall for gear. Up high you have to commit to one or the other wall. We committed to the south (marmalade wall)

Protection

Standard Tucson rack, don't think we drilled, think it might be a bit run out in places as you go back and forth across the two walls.