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Ding Dongs and Taco Sauce

5.11c/d, Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 4 from 8 votes
FA: Lauren Clayton
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > Main Dome South > Frontside Boulders
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Overhanging hand/fist roof crack that turns a lip and thins down to tight hands and fingers as angle goes back to vertical. The roof crack is about 15 ft. long and you are actually climbing downhill until near the lip. Once the lip is turned, the route tops out about 25 ft. above the ground

Location

Obvious crack splitting large boulder almost perfectly in half. Easily visible from Frontside/Loop trails as you near Turkey Peak

Protection

Pro is obvious- Widgets and shinies as you desire

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Overexposed to capture underbelly and top
[Hide Photo] Overexposed to capture underbelly and top

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] so.. I normally do not down grade. But I do think it is important to put this roof crack in comparison with other roof cracks that are bench mark grades/ticks. There is no way shape or form that this is 5.11c/d no matter your hand size. If you are tall with medium hands it is 10+ at best. Try getting on more monkey than funky at 11+ in Joshua tree or seperate reality 5.11+/12a in Yosemite and you'll see what I mean. If you tick this then hell yea! but don't expect to get on 5.11+ roof cracks on the west coast and have a good time. Apr 22, 2019