PRINT: Rock Climb Ding Dongs and Taco Sauce, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Ding Dongs and Taco Sauce

5.11c/d, Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 15 votes
FA: Lauren Clayton
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > Main Dome South > Frontside Boulders

Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.

Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.

For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…

830-685-3636

Description

Overhanging hand/fist roof crack that turns a lip and thins down to tight hands and fingers as angle goes back to vertical. The roof crack is about 15 ft. long and you are actually climbing downhill until near the lip. Once the lip is turned, the route tops out about 25 ft. above the ground

Location

Obvious crack splitting large boulder almost perfectly in half. Easily visible from Frontside/Loop trails as you near Turkey Peak

Protection

Pro is obvious- Widgets and shinies as you desire

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing the roof

Pulling what I think is the crux

Leaving the roof into the hand jams. There were some cute bats taking climbing notes:)

Finishing the easy part

It's. So. Beautiful.... Tape up for the start! haha

Overexposed to capture underbelly and top

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TradPrincess Eden
Moab, UT

5.11a

so.. I normally do not down grade. But I do think it is important to put this roof crack in comparison with other roof cracks that are bench mark grades/ticks. There is no way shape or form that this is 5.11c/d no matter your hand size. If you are tall with medium hands it is 10+ at best. Try getting on more monkey than funky at 11+ in Joshua tree or seperate reality 5.11+/12a in Yosemite and you'll see what I mean. If you tick this then hell yea! but don't expect to get on 5.11+ roof cracks on the west coast and have a good time. Apr 22, 2019

Eric Swanson
Fresno, CA

Small nuts and .1-.2 BD cams for toprope anchor. Apr 28, 2022

Jesse Keough
Denver CO

5.11c/d

I climb 5.11 & 5.12 cracks, this climb is hard... I have large hands. For me the guidebook grade is accurate. Mar 26, 2023

Nicholas van Rensburg
San Antonio, TX

5.11c/d

Stoked to finally send this classic. Based off climbing other 11's in the park, this climb gets the c/d rating without a doubt. Maybe tradprincess has small hands. Maybe I just suck. Mar 26, 2023

Nicholas van Rensburg
San Antonio, TX

5.11c/d

youtu.be/lS7QT8o6Xf0 Mar 28, 2023