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Routes in Left Blockade

Block Aid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objet d'Irt T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: November 24, 2014
Page Views: 34 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 28, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The best route on this section of cliff, though the bottom tends to be greasy.
Climb up onto the ledge, then into the awkward alcove under the overhang. Reach the lovely jam crack and slam away. The angle eases soon enough to prevent pump failure, just be sure to plug enough to prevent a revisit to the ledge. Cleaned up a bit better, this would rank 2 stars.
The FA involved freezing temps and snowfall, screaming barfies and a fast retreat after the send. Definitely running out of rock time in 2015.

Location

Begin in a short right-facing corner 30m right of the landmark big right-facing corner. The starting corner diminishes greatly on the right end of a large ledge a bit above head-height; above this an overhanging notch leads to a left-leaning vertical hand crack.

Protection

Doubles of 1" to 2 1/2" cams, a single run of cams from 1/4" to 3". No fixed anchor, though a small oak tree lines up well with the top of the crack.

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