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Routes in Stockholm

Andrè S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mi Consenta S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ummagumma S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 50 total, 2/month
Shared By: Paul Hutton on Nov 27, 2015
Admins: Tim Wolfe

You & This Route


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Description

Being tall helps, to reach the first jug off the ground. The waves from the ocean like to sneak up to you at the bottom of this route. High tide can have you running for dryness. Have a belayer that doesn't mind getting a little wet. If big static moves on GOOD, obvious holds is possible for you, send this route and get your belayer to high ground. Get past the big reach that's early in the route, climb the easy finish to the anchor. Short and fun!

Location

Climber's right on the right side of the massive overhang. 7a+ written on the rock.

Protection

5 bolts and the anchor with a metal lowering ring.

Photos

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Paul Hutton
Dirtbaggin
 
Paul Hutton   Dirtbaggin
 
This route has the tide hitting the base of the wall, sometimes. Sometimes, the sand is high enough for a medium sized climber, like myself (5'8"), to grab the first jug overhead. The first time I saw this route, I could jump from the ground and easily grab the first hold with one hand, it's huge (too novice and scared to try the intimidating overhang)! The day I wanted to try for the redpoint, the sand was so low that I couldn't reach the first hold--I had to make use of a wooden pallet, like a ladder. The last time I saw it, the jug was well within reach, I couldn't believe how much the sand changes lol! Feb 24, 2016