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Routes in Lundy Canyon Ice

Lundy Falls WI2
Triple Conjunction T WI2
Type: Ice, 500 ft, Grade II
FA: Jim Collins, John Ellsworth, Art Buck, mid-1970's
Page Views: 228 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Also known as "Three Wise Men". A fun backcountry romp. Be aware that there is a high volume of water underneath/behind this route, climb carefully. Later in the season access can be more problematic and the route could catch a lot of snow in a big storm.

After getting into the gully follow it up for a couple hundred feet. This could be easy snow, low angle ice, or a combination of the two. Wherever it looks best turn right and climb the steeper ice for a few pitches.

Location

This route is the creek that drains Lake Helen. Follow the trail into Lundy Canyon. Leave the trail soon after it starts to switchback uphill to the south, where it's closest to the gully containing the route. If you're in the right spot you can scramble down 30 feet of 3rd class ledges to access the gully. When this section is snow covered it could be more interesting.

From the top hike uphill for a minute or two before cutting left to pick up the trail. You can also access the top of the gully crossed on the approach (climber's left of the route) which provides a ripping glissade when snow conditions are right. Be aware that you are in avalanche terrain here.

Protection

Ice screws. A light rock rack (stoppers, cams from a .4 to #2 BD) could be useful if the ice is on the thinner side.

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