Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Omaha Beach

5.14a, Sport, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Bill Ramsey 1999
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > (BRRP) Bald Roc… > Motherlode > (4) Madness Cave
Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description

The king line of the Madness Cave, this route climbs out the steepest part of the cave to the highest part of the cliff. Extended to the top of the cliff and sent by Bill Ramsey in 1999, this route was originally graded 5.13d, but upgraded after several holds broke. This is the quintessential RRG line, long and steep, but with generally pretty good holds, and no hard moves for the grade.

Starting off the small boulder, pull one of the harder moves on the route a ~V5 boulder problem on small holds. Continue up the steep wall on 5.11 jugs to a tricky sloping leftwards traverse section to gain the resting ledge. It is about mid 5.12 to here. After figuring out the sit down rest and forcing yourself to wait until fully recovered, attack the steep headwall, moving past a difficult section passing the 3rd bolt (on the headwall). A quick shake is obtained at the 6th bolt (on the headwall),with more difficult moves to gain the "beach" and the 7th bolt. Get a good shake and pull difficult moves to get off the "beach". Another shake allows some more recovery before tackling the steep mid 5.12 finishing headwall above. The last bolt is generally skipped on redpoint attempts resulting in some huge whips as climbers gun for the jugs below the chains.

Some sneaky beta allows a few additional rests, and some of the cruxes can be dumbed down with kneepads.

Location

Center of the Madness Cave, to the left is "Flour Power" to the right is the "Madness". Starts off a boulder on a vertical section with little crimps.

Protection

~15 bolts to anchors, generally the first long sling is stick clipped, skipping the first few bolts. Nice to back clean the first few bolts for rope drag. The last bolt is generally skipped on redpoint attempts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber redpointing Omaha Beach on a grey day
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber redpointing Omaha Beach on a grey day
Pulling onto the final headwall.
[Hide Photo] Pulling onto the final headwall.
The first decent rest on the headwall, 6 bolts in.  The 5th bolt is generally skipped on redpoint attempts, or clipped from the rest above.
[Hide Photo] The first decent rest on the headwall, 6 bolts in. The 5th bolt is generally skipped on redpoint attempts, or clipped from the rest above.
The first crux, at the third bolt on the headwall.
[Hide Photo] The first crux, at the third bolt on the headwall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Lewis
Superior, CO
[Hide Comment] Check out Bill Ramsey on Omaha Beach in 1999: youtube.com/watch?v=qMAV5Ov…. Forward to 44:00. Feb 9, 2023