Type: Sport
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 1,222 total · 17/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson, Pat Goodman

You & This Route


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Description

This fantastic, improbably steep route route ascends some more of the brilliant white stone of the Lakebed.

Start preclipped (I advise two bolts), and hop to a shelf. After a juggy traverse deposits you at the base of an arete, engage in a surprise crux section up this feature that ends with a wild drive-by dyno to snag a sharp-lipped jug. Traverse left here (Michael Boltin' branches right), clip bolt three, and then wander left over a bulge before coming back into the bolt line at bolt 4.

The next section looks blank, but fear not: a perfectly placed jug pocket allows relatively easy passage. Further steep hauling on good holds leads to one final big move, and then the anchors.

This route is a gem. Go do it.

Location

In the Beach area of Long Point. From the access gully, head climber's left for a couple of minutes until you see the steep buttress that holds Aryan Race, Michael Boltin' (13a), and Redneck Logic (13a). Aryan Race is the steepest leftmost line.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor.

Photos