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Routes in Long Point

204 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
665 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Bit Worn Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aryan Race S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Bang T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Trail S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Booger Sugar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cousteau's Crux S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flake and Bake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hell Hound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hillbilly Sex Farm S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Grail S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Honemeisters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Houseboy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liturgy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mononucleosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opium of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porter for Recorder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rock Opera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Route with a Ranger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scientific Paws S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Serial Driller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slingin' Yayo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speaking Fire T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stumbling Dice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Glory S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Lashing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wendigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zinger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 299 total · 11/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This fantastic, improbably steep route route ascends some more of the brilliant white stone of the Lakebed.

Start preclipped (I advise two bolts), and hop to a shelf. After a juggy traverse deposits you at the base of an arete, engage in a surprise crux section up this feature that ends with a wild drive-by dyno to snag a sharp-lipped jug. Traverse left here (Michael Boltin' branches right), clip bolt three, and then wander left over a bulge before coming back into the bolt line at bolt 4.

The next section looks blank, but fear not: a perfectly placed jug pocket allows relatively easy passage. Further steep hauling on good holds leads to one final big move, and then the anchors.

This route is a gem. Go do it.

Location

In the Beach area of Long Point. From the access gully, head climber's left for a couple of minutes until you see the steep buttress that holds Aryan Race, Michael Boltin' (13a), and Redneck Logic (13a). Aryan Race is the steepest leftmost line.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor.

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