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Routes in Long Point

204 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
665 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Bit Worn Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aryan Race S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Bang T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Trail S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Booger Sugar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cousteau's Crux S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crackatoa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake and Bake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hell Hound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hillbilly Sex Farm S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Grail S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Honemeisters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Houseboy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liturgy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mononucleosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opium of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Porter for Recorder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rock Opera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Route with a Ranger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scientific Paws S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Serial Driller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slingin' Yayo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stumbling Dice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Glory S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tongue Lashing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wendigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zinger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 341 total · 11/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This fantastic, improbably steep route route ascends some more of the brilliant white stone of the Lakebed.

Start preclipped (I advise two bolts), and hop to a shelf. After a juggy traverse deposits you at the base of an arete, engage in a surprise crux section up this feature that ends with a wild drive-by dyno to snag a sharp-lipped jug. Traverse left here (Michael Boltin' branches right), clip bolt three, and then wander left over a bulge before coming back into the bolt line at bolt 4.

The next section looks blank, but fear not: a perfectly placed jug pocket allows relatively easy passage. Further steep hauling on good holds leads to one final big move, and then the anchors.

This route is a gem. Go do it.

Location [Suggest Change]

In the Beach area of Long Point. From the access gully, head climber's left for a couple of minutes until you see the steep buttress that holds Aryan Race, Michael Boltin' (13a), and Redneck Logic (13a). Aryan Race is the steepest leftmost line.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts + anchor.

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