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Routes in Coal Wash

Joe and His Dog - His Dog Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Mirage Tower - Make Coal Wash Great Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Mueller Tower - Hurry the F Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twin Priest Tower - Act of Contrition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom, Andrew Gram 11/20/2015
Page Views: 366 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 22, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

His Dog is an adventurous tower route. The tower is very narrow and has cracks you can see through even at the base.

P1) Aid up a crack to a 4 bolt ladder to an awkward bulging crack. After pulling over an overhang, 5.6 free climbing leads to a belay ledge and a 3 bolt anchor. 80' 5.6 C2.

P2) Do a weird scary mantle move right off the belay onto the next ledge system. Walk 20' along the ledge to the summit headwall. Free climb easy terrain past a crack and one bolt, and then climb a steep 5 bolt ladder to another weird scary mantle move onto the summit. 80' 5.8 C0.

A single 70 meter rope rappel from a 3 bolt anchor gets you back to the ground - anything shorter will require two raps. At least 25' of webbing will be necessary to back up the tat if it is bleached out when this thing gets climbed again.

Location

From the junction of North Coal Wash Road and the Devils Racetrack, continue on the North Coal Wash Road for a mile or so until the towers are visible up a prominent side canyon. Park where the wash from the side canyon hits the road.

Hike up the side canyon, and just before it cliffs out trudge up a dirt and talus slope on the right. Pick your way up the side canyon, eventually reaching the left side of it and going up the first side canyon on the left. Scramble easily out of the canyon onto a broad plateau, and hike cross country to the talus cone. An easy scramble exists starting below His Dog and working left near the top. Make sure to note where you exit the side canyon onto the plateau since it isn't all that obvious on the way back down.

His Dog is the tower on the right, and looks like a dog sitting down.

The hike in takes about an hour and is really beautiful. This same approach also works to get to Devils Monument now that Saddle Horse Canyon is closed to vehicle traffic.

Protection

Stoppers useful, 2 sets of cams to 3 camalot, one old style 3.5, 4, and 4.5 camalot.

70 meter rope is necessary for the rappel.

Photos

Frosty Weller
Colorado
Frosty Weller   Colorado
In the late 90's, along with Keen Butterworth and Jonathan Auerbach, we went in and checked these towers out and climbed Joe. But we knew this one was going to take a lot more work and had yet to make it back. Nice work getting this one guys! Jan 8, 2016
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
Damn, you've been everywhere Frosty. We didn't see any signs of traffic on Joe looking at it from the ground, so we were hoping it was unclimbed too. Any chance you could post your routes on Joe and Golden Gate tower? Jan 8, 2016
Frosty Weller
Colorado
Frosty Weller   Colorado
Hold on Andrew, partners are now telling me we didn't do Joe. In fact Keen and Jonathan don't remember climbing anything out there with me. (Jonathan was in on Golden Gate Tower however.) Memories... part of it is coming back to me, it was the Devils Monument, not Joe. Sorry for the confusion, but you now have another virgin tower to bag. :-) Sep 21, 2016

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