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Texas Eagle
5.9,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
FA: Scott Hammon
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Moonshiner's Wall
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r… Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This is the obvious finger crack just right of the main approach trail. Choose your own V1 adventure to get to the base of the crack, once there don't pull too hard on anything until you are established into the crack, pro is solid if you take your time. The crack itself allows for awesome locks, the face has some value to it but rock quality is not great, so trust your locks and go. Top out and set a belay with a directional in a horizontal just to the left. Descent via slung tree or pillar (better option) short distance to climbers left.
Protection
.3 through .75, some bigger stuff if you wanna carry weight.
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Idyllwild, CA
Lexington, KY