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Routes in 4. The Clean Slate Roof and Scarred Rock

Scarred for Life V2-3 5+
Sins of Omission, The V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Eli Buzzell & Andy Phol
Page Views: 138 total, 5/month
Shared By: Eli on Nov 16, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Sit Start on the left side of the boulder in the low jugs in the Horizontal Crack. Traverse the crack until thins into nothing, then use small feet and crimps to make your way to the top out on the small ledge at the end of the boulder. I did this by using very small holds and slapping the arete, topping out with a kind of side step mantle. This line will feel easier the smaller your fingers are.

Location

The most obvious line on the Scarred Rock boulder. The obvious seam.

Protection

Pads Spotter

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
  V2
Eli   Lives in a truck
  V2
I definitely agree with you on the grade, I remember trying the finish to the route a variety of ways, eventually I just changed my beta and it went very easily. Probably not a v4, but more like a 2+ or 3. I liked this route, but it lost a lot of footholds when I originally cleaned it off. Did you take a look at the roof on the trail that comes before this problem? I never got a chance to mess with it. Apr 21, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V2-3
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V2-3
The good feet and good beta will make this seem easier than v4. In my opinion it is v2-v3. Apr 20, 2016