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Schools Out

5.9+, Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Alan Bartlett & Brett Norum June 1980
California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Tuttle Obelisk
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description

Excellent rock, no fixed gear, and a true pointy summit. Pat Brennan listed this route as one of his favorites in all the Sierra. What's not to like?

From the AAJ:
In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner. Two crack pitches lead to a huge ledge. From here ascend the right of three possibilities: a curving, “quarter-moon” crack. Above this, the original route is joined. NCCS III, F9.
Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club

The last pitch of the original route follows a splitter leading directly up to the base of the summit block. A wild hand traverse beneath the summit block lands you on its backside. The final 20' summit block has no pro and no anchor. Solo up the chimney and make an exposed step across the gap to get on top of the tiny perch in the sky.

For those seeking something harder, a direct variation P1 starts around the corner to the right of the ramp, following twin cracks in a corner @ 5.10+ (Bob Cable & Eric Tipton 1998)

From the ledge just below the summit, head west for 50-100' and locate a rap sling on a chockstone. One 30M rappel to the north will get you into the gully; follow the easy gully back around to the base.

Location

First locate the Rowell-Jones route - the ugly bush-choked chimney & dihedral system that runs from bottom to top. The route starts on a ramp to its right. Look for the enormous dihedral that makes up pitches 2&3.

Protection

Doubles to 3", single 4"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Amy Ness following the awesome & exposed hand traverse below the summit block on P5 of Schools Out
[Hide Photo] Amy Ness following the awesome & exposed hand traverse below the summit block on P5 of Schools Out
Summit of Tuttle Obelisk
[Hide Photo] Summit of Tuttle Obelisk
Special Sierra Summit
[Hide Photo] Special Sierra Summit
Route takes the right trending ramp coming from behind the tree, to the prominent corner
[Hide Photo] Route takes the right trending ramp coming from behind the tree, to the prominent corner
Amy Ness following the splitter towards the wild hand traverse below the summit.
[Hide Photo] Amy Ness following the splitter towards the wild hand traverse below the summit.
Amy Ness leading the "quarter-moon crack" on P4 of Schools Out
[Hide Photo] Amy Ness leading the "quarter-moon crack" on P4 of Schools Out
Amy Ness leading the sustained P2 corner of Schools Out
[Hide Photo] Amy Ness leading the sustained P2 corner of Schools Out

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Throckmorton
Salt lake City Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Didn't get the Whitney/Russell permit you were hoping for? Why not head up the south fork tuttle creek to this gem! Unique summit, inspiring setting, and interesting climbing with nobody around. Doubles to 3 with single 4 works perfectly to protect everything, rap slings still in good shape as of this post, and numerous karens along the way make the hike in fairly reasonable.

The 10+ start looks like a better option to begin this route then the 5.7 ramp (I believe its the shady corner in the picture I added). Jul 9, 2019
Sebastian Bailey
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] An excellent route made even better by the fact that we saw noone all day.
Some beta on the 10+ start- the corner in the picture does indeed go at about 10+ and is a quality pitch, but beware- it is a burly start to your day. Bring some wide-ish techniques and gear and enjoy (double 3s and 4s should suffice and you'll likely want them for the rest of the route as well).
The somewhat-vegetated left crack could possibly be laybacked, but it felt like the harder option to me. Aug 4, 2019