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Routes in Tuttle Obelisk

Schools Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alan Bartlett & Brett Norum June 1980
Page Views: 350 total, 14/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Nov 16, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Excellent rock, no fixed gear, and a true pointy summit. Pat Brennan listed this route as one of his favorites in all the Sierra. What's not to like?

From the AAJ:
In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner. Two crack pitches lead to a huge ledge. From here ascend the right of three possibilities: a curving, “quarter-moon” crack. Above this, the original route is joined. NCCS III, F9.
Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club

The last pitch of the original route follows a splitter leading directly up to the base of the summit block. A wild hand traverse beneath the summit block lands you on its backside. The final 20' summit block has no pro and no anchor. Solo up the chimney and make an exposed step across the gap to get on top of the tiny perch in the sky.

For those seeking something harder, a direct variation P1 starts around the corner to the right of the ramp, following twin cracks in a corner @ 5.10+ (Bob Cable & Eric Tipton 1998)

From the ledge just below the summit, head west for 50-100' and locate a rap sling on a chockstone. One 30M rappel to the north will get you into the gully; follow the easy gully back around to the base.

Location

First locate the Rowell-Jones route - the ugly bush-choked chimney & dihedral system that runs from bottom to top. The route starts on a ramp to its right. Look for the enormous dihedral that makes up pitches 2&3.

Protection

Doubles to 3", single 4"

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