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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Grey Giant Area
> Fortress
The Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in The Fortress
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Arms Control T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Catapult T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Grubstake Days T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure), The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Natural Selection T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Hampshire, Naturally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Old Man Down the Road, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sublimation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tower of Godliness - Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weekend Warrior T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Dave Evans, Craig Fry - 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,260 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Nov 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A great long finger and hand crack line with tons of good movement that reaches the top of the formation. About 100 feet up, move right 5 feet to another crack until it fades out into the standard Josh run-out slab finish. Gritty but super fun.
Two possible starts: the left crack leads to face climbing left to a bolt on fun holds to rejoin the crack (recommended) - the right start follows crack up.
Two possible starts: the left crack leads to face climbing left to a bolt on fun holds to rejoin the crack (recommended) - the right start follows crack up.
Location
Look for a long splitter on the right side of the Fortress, identify the left start with a bolt about 30 feet up.
Protection
Standard rack - doubles to 3", a 4" cam is useful but not necessary. There is one modern protection bolt on the left start. Gear anchor - wrap a big boulder way back at the top.
Descent: Scramble along the top east to the top of Old Man Down the Road, down climb past an old 1/4" double bolt anchor to a better double bolt anchor about 15 feet lower down. Rappel with two 60 meter ropes.
Descent: Scramble along the top east to the top of Old Man Down the Road, down climb past an old 1/4" double bolt anchor to a better double bolt anchor about 15 feet lower down. Rappel with two 60 meter ropes.
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