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Routes in The Swamp

Iron Giant, The TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Tuesday TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V2 5+
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Nick Smith
Page Views: 326 total, 13/month
Shared By: nicksmith on Nov 14, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

The tallest route at the quarry. This starts off on an arete from some pallets in the water and climbs a hard 5.10 to a horizontal crack where a hard 5.11 move gets you onto the face. The crux is climbing the thin left facing corner to the top. there are two top outs. one goes straight up and the other climbs out right a bit. Definitely has some of the coolest moves I've pulled at Deer creek.

Location

Arete with the pallets under it down in the swamp

Protection

Must set up top rope on a tree and use a directional off a cam (.5-4 camalot) to stop the rope from wandering. Route must be top belayed due to rope drag.

I know bolting is controversial here so I'm not sure whether or not I should bolt it and make it a lead climb. It's definitely tall enough and would be unreasonable to protect with pads. It would take three bolts and two for the anchor. I think I should, what do you think?

Photos

Daniel Frederick
Sacramento, California
Daniel Frederick   Sacramento, California
Please Don't Bolt Anything at Deer Creek Park. CRAGS is in talks with the City of Rocklin to purchase Deer Creek Park and incorporate it into their parks department and CRAGS to steward the area. Bolting anything now could jeopardize this process. There is an Adopt a Crag planned for May 13th and would love to see you out there and we could talk some more then. Until this is approved any work out there could hurt our relationship with the City and will be chopped. Thank you for your help with this. Your patience will be rewarded by being able to stand on the ground and not in a toxic swamp. Mar 25, 2017
Greg Tennyson
Roseville
Greg Tennyson   Roseville
This season if the pit dries out I'll bolt it and 2nd it. I rap'd down it the other day and it looks do-able. Mar 12, 2017
Eric L
Roseville, CA
Eric L   Roseville, CA
Nick, good to meet you yesterday. I think this route deserves bolts for a top anchor, but not sport bolts (too much for this park). However, I agree with Kelley that hardware would be stolen and bolts chopped. It's sad, really because the Bayou (Slab crack) had bolts chopped and could have used them for a TR option (it's a great beginner/teaching route). You may want to raise the conversation with CRAGS and gain their support. If approved/supported, glue-ins would be better than standard bolts. If you want a more permanent base, consider using some of the dumped materials by the rail tracks - plenty of concrete chunks over there. Jan 19, 2016
nicksmith
Yosemite, ca
 
nicksmith   Yosemite, ca
 
yeah I do agree with a lot of what you said. bolting there has always been a problem, that's why I asked. It's awful when people bolt things that could be protected as boulder problems, but what I'm seeing here is that this climb could not be protected with pads and Is too tall to really contemplate bouldering it safely. I was thinking of building up a more solid/permanent base down in the water with a bunch of pallets I have to make the climb more accessible year round. And the bolts I had in mind wouldn't be reachable from the ground w/o a stick clip or the top unless you wanted to rappel. Just a couple bolts, maybe only two on the face. I wouldn't think of bolting it if the top rope was good, but it has to be top belayed because of rope drag and the edge at the top is just plain bad for the rope to run over when you fall. toproping it was ok for the FA, but just too much work for anyone to really consider seconding it. I don't think a couple bolts on an actually tall route would incite a bolting craze around the rest of the quarry. The only negative thing I could see happening is someone putting in the work to chop the bolts for no good reason. I'm not about to go and do anything soon, I'd like to get some more feedback before I make a decision. Right now I've got a few people who say, "yes bolt it" and now one no. We'll see how it goes Nov 18, 2015
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Please do not bolt at Deer Creek Park. It will only lead to people bolting convenience anchors on the other proud highball lines in the park. If you were able to TR it off some trees that's good enough. In non drought years the pit is full of water almost all year. I would just be stoked that you were able to climb in an otherwise inaccessible area most years. Plus, peoples hardware ends up damaged, stolen, or chopped. Look at the top of Pinscar Crack (Nemesis), or the 5.6 crack in the Bayou. You've probably have seen both failed attempts already. Nov 16, 2015