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Routes in The Swamp
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Iron Giant, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Taco Tuesday TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V2 5+ |
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| Type: | TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Nick Smith |
| Page Views: | 1,129 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | nick Smith on Nov 14, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Access Notes
Details
CRAGS, the local Access Fund org, continues to work with the City of Rocklin, and its Parks and Recreation Department, to improve the conditions of this bouldering site. Because of the setting, litter is a problem in this area. Please do your part. With a number of clean-ups and a recent face lift to the park, it is one of the easiest bouldering locations to get to in the Sacramento valley. With a longer term goal of (literally!) draining the swamp, and holding many future local events, Rocklin Bouldering is one of first and longest ongoing projects. Note that the former quarries east of Pacific Street, and opposite Deer Creek Park, are closed to climbing. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Deer Creek Park page norcalcrags.org/crags/rockl….
Description
The tallest route at the quarry. This starts off on an arete from some pallets in the water and climbs a hard 5.10 to a horizontal crack where a hard 5.11 move gets you onto the face. The crux is climbing the thin left facing corner to the top. there are two top outs. one goes straight up and the other climbs out right a bit. Definitely has some of the coolest moves I've pulled at Deer creek.
Protection
Must set up top rope on a tree and use a directional off a cam (.5-4 camalot) to stop the rope from wandering. Route must be top belayed due to rope drag.
I know bolting is controversial here so I'm not sure whether or not I should bolt it and make it a lead climb. It's definitely tall enough and would be unreasonable to protect with pads. It would take three bolts and two for the anchor. I think I should, what do you think?
I know bolting is controversial here so I'm not sure whether or not I should bolt it and make it a lead climb. It's definitely tall enough and would be unreasonable to protect with pads. It would take three bolts and two for the anchor. I think I should, what do you think?
5 Comments